How to Make a Beanie Hat: Pattern Tutorial (PRTW009)

I felt I should go into a bit more detail on the beanie hat. Namely: how to draft it.

It's quite simple but will take a little fitting when it's on. This tutorial also works for non-stretch hats; just use the measurements as taken, rather than scaling for stretch. Probably on a non-stretch hat, you'd be better off with 6 panels, rather than 3, for a smoother fit.

Taking Measurements

1. Measure around the wearer's head where the band will go. Divide this measurement by the number of panels you will have. This will be a 3-panel hat. You can make more panels if you like, or just 2.
2. Measure the arc of the hat, i.e. over the head from front to back. This will probably be too long, but you can edit that in the toile. Divide this measurement by 2.

Measuring to make your beanie hat

Drafting the Beanie Hat

1. Draw a vertical line, a parallel line either side of that, each half a panel-width from the centre line. 56cm ÷ 6 = 9.3cm (22" ÷ 6 = 3.7").
2. Draw a horizontal line near the bottom of the paper.
3. Above that draw another line, half the arc of your head (for me, 17.8cm (7")).
4. At the top centre of the hat, draw lines at the desired angle from the centre line. This hat has 3 panels, so 360° ÷ 3 panels, ÷ 2 for the symmetrical pattern = 60°.
5. The two 'arms' of the panel must be drafted to that angle to give a smooth dome-like top to the hat.
6. Keep the curves shallow on stretch fabric or you'll end up with a hat that looks like a citrus juicer.
7. If your fabric is stretchy, narrow the hat by the stretch factor (as shown here.)
8. If you are sewing a contrast band onto your hat, cut off its depth. If not, you can flip the pattern along the bottom line and save a seam.
9. If your ribbing is stretchier than your main fabric, adjust the stretch for that. The ribbing won't need a pattern; it's just a rectangle.
10. Cut the ribbing to twice the depth as a rectangle, the length of your head circumference adjusted for stretch and with seam allowances added.
11. Add seam allowance to the hat (3/8" (1cm)) and cut 6 panels: 3 outer and 3 lining.

Panelled Hat Draft

Sewing

Now, contrary to the main idea of this blog, I don't believe this is the RTW way to sew a beanie hat. I'm not sure I've seen one in the shops with a contrasting band, so that might be why. I need to have a look at some, but as I'm writing this during Lockdown 3, that will have to wait.

1. Sew 3 panels together to make the outer hat. Try this on and see how it fits. Adjust as necessary and make the lining match.
2. Sew the other 3 panels together to make the lining.
3. Fuse stretch interfacing to the WS of the ribbing.
4. Put them RS together with the banding in between, so it's like a double ham sandwich. You'll have to stretch the ribbing to fit. Pins may help, or you can sew the ribbing to one 'half-hat' and then sew that unit to the other. Leave a gap about 4cm (1.5") long for turning the hat RS out.
5. Turn it RS out.
6. Tuck the raw edges in, and topstitch closed. I stitched right around the hat using my manual buttonhole foot. I should have pressed first for a neater finish. Oh well.
7. Sew a label on if you wish. :)

If you make a hat following this tutorial, let me know! I'd love to see your makes. Tag me on Instagram and let me know how you get on and if you have any questions. :)