How to Sew a Double-Entry pocket for a Coat or Jacket

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Header image shows a double-entry coat pocket with a ruler sticking out of the top and pair of scissors sticking out of the side. The words "How to sew a Double-Entry Coat Pocket" are in a faded white text box with "Project RTW" in smaller text to the lower right.


There are several kinds of double-entry pockets you'll find on coats and jackets. This one is suitable for lined coats and has plenty of room. If you are making a winter coat, you may wish to use a fleece or woollen fabric for the lining pieces, to keep your hands warm. I'm making a summer coat, so I'll be using a summer weight cotton for my lining pieces.

I figured out how to make this by examining my friend's winter coat (it's a man's coat, so naturally has many enormous pockets, unlike my ladies' winter coat which has tiddlly little ones...[grumble, grumble]).

The Pieces

This style of pocket has:
  • An outer layer
  • A lining for the outer layer
  • A facing for the outer pocket
  • An inner lining that will be sewn onto the jacket body
  • A gusset (narrow hem one short end before you start)
  • A flap (with its own lining, of course)
So that's 7 pieces in total per pocket.

How to Make a Double-Entry Pocket for a Coat or Jacket

(photo-instructions)

Step 1. Sew the facing to the outermost lining

This is the layer that will lie against the outermost shell fabric. It will also be the layer that's against the back of your hand.

Sew the facing down as shown. Then flip it back along the stitch line and tack it down along the edges if desired.

Image shows a pocket-shaped piece of calico on a spotted ironing board, with the facing stitched on top along the line furthest from the cut edge. 
Image shows a pocket-shaped piece of calico on a spotted ironing board, with the facing stitched on top along the line furthest from the cut edge, and flipped into place, ready to be tacked down.

Step 2: Sew the lining to the outer layer

Lay the lining piece you just prepared RS together onto the outer piece. Stitch along the slanted edge that will be the hand entry point. Stop at the seam line rather than going all the way to the edge. Stop with your needle down.

Image shows the lining layer lain right sides together to the outer layer (both in calico on a spotted ironing board), stitched along the slanted edge that will be the hand-entry.



Step 3: Insert the gusset

This is shown away from the sewing machine for clarity.

Lay the gusset between the two layers, with its hemmed edge butted up to your needle and raw edges matching. Stitch down to the corner and stop with your needle down. Snip into the gusset to near the needle. Pivot and repeat for the next corner.

Image shows the gusset tucked in between the outer and lining layers.


When you get to the top corner, trim the gusset (if necessary) to 1cm beyond the top edge of the lining, and then it down 1cm to the lining side. Stitch to the end of the seam and backstitch.

Step 3: Topstitch and Edgestitch the gusset

Turn it all RS out and topstitch 7mm away from the seam as shown.

Image shows the pocket so far, turned right side out, with topstitching 7mm (a quarter inch) away from the seam line, all around except along the top edge.

Close-up of the corner after the first line of topstitching


Now edge-stitch the gusset to the lining side of the unit, taking care at the corners. This helps give some structure to the pocket.

Image shows the pocket unit after the gusset has been edgestitched to the lining side, all around except the top edge.

Image shows a close-up of the corner after edge stitching.

Step 4: Making and attaching the inner lining

Fold the seam allowance of the slanted edge of the inner lining to the wrong side. Snip to the point where the gusset seam will start, and edge-stitch the fold down. 

Image shows the inner lining piece (in calico) with the slanted edge's seam allowance folded to the wrong side and stitched down.

Sew the gusset to the inner lining in much the same way as you did step 3. Turn RS out and press.


Image shows the gusset stitched to the inner lining piece.

Image shows the pocket standing up on its own

Step 5: the pleats at the top

Pin the pleats in place at the top corners, keeping the inner layer slightly smaller than the outer one so that it doesn't show when worn.

Image shows one of the two top corners with the pleat pinned in place.



Image shows the two top corners pinned into pleats.

Turn the top edge down twice, enclosing the raw edges. Hem. The pocket is now ready to edge-stitch onto the coat.

Image shows the pocket with the top edge hemmed, ready to be sewn onto the garment.


Edge-stitch in place on the garment, all along the inner lining layer.

Image shows a top corner of the pocket with a rectangle of stitching.
Sew a box at the top corners and the corner at the bottom of the slope to secure.


Image shows the pocket stitched to the garment with the flap pinned upwards out of the way above it.

Image shows a hand holding the side entry of the pocket open to reveal the innermost lining top-stitched to the coat body.

Shows how the innermost lining is stitched onto the body of the coat.





Two pockets sewn on with different styles of top-stitching. Add the flaps and you're ready for the next step in your coat.


Let me know if this has been helpful :).

Location: York, UK

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