Cracking the bra drafting (I hope)

These are my two most recent bras.

They're both self-drafted. I got my block using the Porcelynne method, but when it comes to design drafting, as opposed to the block, I don't understand the curves maths, so I've tried a few other methods, namely:

1. slashing and spreading, and using rock of eye to add fullness when I need it, and
2. not adding any, but using the DoGS (Direction of Greatest Stretch) to fit over the curves.

The navy one is woven and is okay except that the cups are not even visually symmetrical and that the left cup (which is actually my bigger one) has a slight puffiness along the top of the cup, which is odd. I don't know if I stretched it when I sewed that seam...

Anyway, I decided to try a vertical seam cup, and sort of knocked off the Watson bra (patterns never come small enough for me and altering a pattern every time I want a new design seems bothersome).

I tried a test cup with an underwire in a grown-on casing (really big seam allowance folded back on itself). It fit really well. I cut it on the bias so that it had stretch across the chest.

I used the knock-off Watson pattern to make the light blue bra, leaving off the seam allowances for a botched stretch adjustment.

It's the second stretchy bra I've made and it's really comfy. Both cups use the same pattern. I'm not sure that it's particularly elevating, but it's not bad; I don't look saggy (which is possible even with my modest form). It was also much quicker to make (taking a few hours instead of most of the day).

Continued...

I've been having a world of trouble drafting design patterns for bras. I have been trying a) to use the Porcelynne sloper method, which I gave up on because I can't get my head around it, and b) slashing and spreading to allow for the curve of the breast.

And guess what! I was over-complicating it. (Not that I always over-complicate things...)

After pinching out and sewing a couple of folds the fit is better and the cups more symmetrical.
You can see the step on my left-hand cup, and where I've covered up the top-stitching on my right-hand one.

Look how flat that gore is sitting!

Four things have made my bra-drafting life much easier:

1. Using the DoGS instead of the grainline. I wasn't doing this because in the Bare Essentials Bra book, she says that you don't do that in industry. I don't know why. I'd like to know. Please tell me if you do.
2. Having a simple, 2-piece vertical cup block that fits, and drafting designs on that as I draft dress patterns: by drawing and cutting.
3. Being very careful to match everything up when I sew, and not stretch anything.
4. Press each seam. This may be especially important when making non-stretch bras, I don't know. But they get distorted if you don't, and they don't look nice.

Using the DoGS (in this case, the bias) means that the cup flexes around the breast. This seems to eliminate the need for complicated adjustments to the pattern. I have it go on the horizontal of the pattern, which is marked from the original draft.

Screenshot of my current bra pattern, with DoGS lines.
You can see how I just drew on the style lines and then cut along them.
Just match up your block where you want the lines to be, and draw.

Now my questions are:

• how will other fabrics work with this?
• how can I be quicker at sewing bras?
• do I need a smaller rotary cutter?
• where can I get 6-10 mm wide strap elastic?
• what do I need to know about bra fabrics?
• how can I make a smooth bra with a lining?

I'm going to make some more of the stretchy bras because THEY'RE SO COMFY! And I'll have a look through my fabric stash and cabbage box to see what bras I can make otherwise. Wish me luck!