We knew it was coming. It was only a matter of time after getting panties right. I've been trying on and off for years anyway. A bra.
I may not actually need one (my chest is so small that when I stand facing a wall, my nose hits it first), but I like wearing them. For warmth, support when cycling over speed bumps, and because they can be pretty and stop your nipples showing though your t-shirts.
I really love the Oh Lulu Bambi bralette but I haven't bought the pattern because a) I wanted to draft it to learn how to draft it, and b) it doesn't come small enough. I don't like adjusting other people's patterns because I don't know where everything is.
I tried and tried. Nothing seemed to work. So I put it aside and got on with other things.
Then yesterday (30th April 2020) when I was bored, I got out my bra book (Bare Essentials - Bras, by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks). Then I put that aside and got out my dress pattern that I made my first graduation dress from, that I know fits well, and some tracing paper.
I feel you should be able to draft a bra from your block, so I ignored what the books said, and did what I thought sensible. I lay some tracing paper over the bra area, and drew the bra shape. I took 2 cm each out of the front and back along the band, and a 1 cm dart out of the boob. Then I took some cabbage from my drawer and made a mock-up.
I have a theory that the "interboobal valley" (the bit between the breasts) will need more fabric than it would have in a dress because it has further to go. So I slashed and spread the front 'cup' a bit. I think this did help, but it also resulted in the pattern's apex being about 6mm further out than mine. Maybe I overdid it. I'm not sure where the middle ground is.
To my amazement, it fit! Much better than any bralette I'd tried to make before (apart from a jersey one, but you have more leeway with stretch fabric). As I wore it for a bit, the fabric gave (even though I'd stay stitched, which I pretty much never do, but thought I should in this case as the fabric has some give), so I took out some more from the back band (a further 2 cm each side) and tapered the side seam from 6mm take-out at the top to nothing at the bottom, and put the straps on. That was better. Then I sewed elastic around the edges and put buttons and buttonholes at the back (I didn't fancy sewing hooks and eyes on).
Now for the slight issues
I'm about 90% happy with the fit. But,
- it's a little too high at the underarms
- so the elastic rubs (easy fix)
- the interboobal dip still doesn't sit flush on my skin. I honestly don't know if you can get it to without a separate cup and some underwire.
So What Am I Going to Do?
I'm going to try a draft from my Bare Essentials book and see how that compares. I may also make a pretty bralette with my current pattern.
Learning Goals with Bras
- Getting the right fit
- Drafting and sewing a bra with wires and stuff
- Using lingerie bits
- Sewing lingerie with lace
- Working out how a bra pattern can be worked together with a dress pattern for evening wear
I don't think it will be that difficult; just time consuming. I've ordered Pattern Cutting for Lingerie and Swimwear too.
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