How to Sew a Double-Entry pocket for a Coat or Jacket

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How to Make Scrubs Trousers PRTW-004

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Graham wearing his new pyjamas bottoms, which are the toile of the scrubs trousers/pants

I sewed the toile this morning. And by "toile" I mean what are now Graham's new pj bottoms. They went together very quickly and easily.

How to sew them:

1. Take each leg separately and sew its leg seam, starting at the bottom of the leg.
  • You don't need pins. Match the hem points and put under the machine. 
  • With your hands, match the crotch point along the stitch line and snip the excess point off the front seam allowance. Hold this in one hand.
  • With your other hand, "finger pin" the knees points together, i.e. halfway down the leg.
  • Sew the seam, keeping raw edges even.
  • Overlock or zigzag.
  • Repeat with other leg.
Sketch of a trouser leg pattern. The larger scoop is the back crotch (for bum room) and the smaller scoop is the front crotch.

Sketch of sewing a trouser leg at the sewing machine. Make sure the ends match and the middles match each other too. Use your fingers instead of pins.

Sketch showing to match the seams along the stitching line and trim at the ends to make the raw edges match.

Sketch showing a trouser leg sew, with an arrow indicating to sew from the hem to the crotch point.

2. Turn one leg inside out and put it inside the other leg, matching the crotch seam.
  • Stitch, matching the crotch point.
  • Overlock. If finished with a zigzag stitch, double-stitch the seam.
Sketch showing one trouser leg inside the other, right sides together, with a dashed line indicating to sew the crotch seam.

3. Make the waist tie:
  • Fold at one end thus:-
  • Put it under the machine and start sewing, back-stitching to secure.
  • After a few inches (about 4 cm), stop with the needle down and for the section in a few inches down in the same way Sew.
  • Repeat until you get to the end, then backstitch.
  • Hem the ends, securing well.
Sketch showing how to make the waist band by turning in the raw edges, folding in half lengthways, and topstitching closed.

4. Make buttonholes 2.5cm (1") long, 1cm each side of the CF seam.
5. This bit is easier if you overlock or zigzag the raw edge of the waist first.
  • Fold the raw edge of the waistline down 5 cm towards the WS.
  • Edge-stitch the fold 3mm from the edge. This makes sewing easier and makes the trousers sit better when worn.
  • Sew the tie centred to the CB waist to stop it from being pulled out.
  • Turn the raw edge under 1cm and edge-stitch it down, encasing the tie. Before you finish this bit, make sure you thread the tie through the buttonholes to the outside.
The top edge of the trouser pattern is turned to the inside of the trousers, at a width of 5cm, and edge-stitched down.

The belt is sewn to the waist-facing inside to stop it coming out when worn.

Turn the raw edge of the waist-facing in by 1cm and sew it down, encasing the belt but not stitching through the belt.

6. Hem the trousers. There is a 3 cm hem allowance, but they are long. Turn under 1.5 cm twice and ES down. Can be increased to 5 cm or the trousers can be cut shorter if being made for a shorter person.

For meterage you will need the trouser pattern length plus a a little bit in case the fabric length is cut inaccurately. 
Location: York, UK

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