Today was my proper first day off in ages. So I spent it the entire afternoon drafting this pattern and working on blog posts.
The first thing to do was to draft the block. As stated previously, I chose to adapt my already well-fitting woven dress block. I had forgotten how to do this so I had to figure it out again.
Note: I ended up not raising the armscye.
First I shifted bust dart to the neckline.
Then slide the hip and waist to close the waist shaping. This leaves some but dart, but comparatively little.
Slide the shoulder point and the side neck point (i.e. the top of the dart) to close the dart. Make the armscye look right again.
Check the chest measurement. Mine was only out by 2mm so I corrected the armscye to put it back.
Now onto the back...
Move the shoulder point and its side of the dart to close the dart.
Check the shoulder lengths are the same.
Move the side waist point in half the width of the dart.
Check the back width. Correct if necessary.
You can delete the waist dart now.
The back looked really weird to me with a huge bum for my proportions, so I took it in and checked it. The neckline has to be made bigger to accommodate the ribbing that is on most t-shirts, so I enlarged it by 12mm.
Make sure the armscye looks right.
At this point, you need a new sleeve.
I drafted it by eye. It's the most reliable way for me to do it now as drafting methods seem always to end up with weird shapes. I estimate lengths based on looking at the armscye and then draw the sleeve cap. After that I check the measurements against the armscye and adjust if necessary to avoid miles of ease.
Comparing to the sleeve pattern from the woven block (full line). The knit sleeve (dashed line) looks pretty close so I'm happy with that. The slight reduction in cap height will probably be fine with the stretch of the fabric, but the toile will decide that.
The first draft for the Knit Block from Woven Dress Block to be tested.
Ready to print. I shortened it because I really don't need to test the length for a block.
Actually, I went ahead and drafted the nightie pattern...
Changes made:
- A-line body
- Flared, raglan sleeve
- Ribbed cuff and neckline
- Wide V-neck
- I had to widen the sleeve to be able to make it raglan as I had no ease in the cap. It MAY be a disaster, but I'll toile it.
Changes I expect to make:
- Reduce sleeve length
- contour neckline a bit
Pattern notes
- 1 cm seam allowances everywhere except neckline, where it's 7mm.
If you would like to make this, here's the pattern for A4 paper. As I say, it's not tested yet. It's to my size, which is 81cm bust, and height 5'2".
The pattern is printed and ready to stick together now, and that will be for my next day off.
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