If you are following this project on Instagram then you will know that I've spent my past 3 days off testing and researching necklines for t-shirts. More specifically, the pattern cutting and sewing that makes them look nice and not stretch out.
I used two kinds of binding on the necklines: a shoulder-neck-shoulder binding, which I associate with better quality t-shirts; and a back-neck binding, which is actually harder to do (for me anyway).
The ribbing actually isn't very difficult. The important thing is to work out how long to cut it. A fabric with less recovery will need to be cut shorter or else the neckline will be too big. A fabric with excellent recovery must be cut closer to the original neckline measurement, or else it will be all puckered and small.
The shoulder-neck-shoulder binding (henceforth "SNS binding") is cut 2cm wide. Edge-stitch with the buttonhole foot #3 and use a longer stitch length as this fabric doesn't feed well.
12.1.2020
I'm just wondering if neck ribbing should be cut longer to account for the point? In my sample pattern, the neck's final stitching line (n) = 28cm, being cut at 27cm to allow for stretch and recovery. But does that make it too short to sit neatly?
If I extend the neckline as in fig. 1, I get a final band of 28.5cm (+ seam allowances).
(ref. https://growyourownclothes.com/2017/09/14/how-to-get-knit-neckband-ribbing-the-perfect-length-every-time/)
...
Sample 3 is a mixed bag.
The topstitch is not good enough but I think, though I cut the neck banding too narrow for this method, and a little of the original neckline stitching is visible, the method is good. It's essentially the same as for SNS binding but wends off at the ends, needing the binding to be cut off during sewing to approximately take this shape.
13.1.2020
Having tired of sewing the same thing repeatedly, I made a sample today with the same fabric as my nightie will be made from. It''s ribbing is much shorter, having -43% recovery. I, however, am an idiot and cut it with -30% (my brain's quick, wrong maths), so although it looks okay, it still stretched out quite a bit (which is clear when compared with previous samples).
It's evidently a good idea to TS the front from the RS, and the neck binding from the inside. Also, be careful to match the stitch lines when sewing the binding onto the s.a. A more skilled/practised seamstress could probably attach it while ribbing the neckline, and save time.
I should have pre-gathered the sleeves more before attaching the cuffs. They stretched out and are huge at the wrist! They are comfortable for sleeping in though. Elastic might have been helpful with this fabric's very poor recovery.
The neckline stretched out too. It's wearable but a bit cold around the neck and shoulders.
Anyway, the toile is done now and wearable.
The fit is relaxed, largely, I think, because of the very drapey fabric. The armscyes are quite low, which is fine for a nightie, but I'd definitely like them higher for a t-shirt. I'll review the pattern.
I may make a tutorial on how to bind the neckline too.
I used two kinds of binding on the necklines: a shoulder-neck-shoulder binding, which I associate with better quality t-shirts; and a back-neck binding, which is actually harder to do (for me anyway).
The ribbing actually isn't very difficult. The important thing is to work out how long to cut it. A fabric with less recovery will need to be cut shorter or else the neckline will be too big. A fabric with excellent recovery must be cut closer to the original neckline measurement, or else it will be all puckered and small.
Notebook
10.1.2020The shoulder-neck-shoulder binding (henceforth "SNS binding") is cut 2cm wide. Edge-stitch with the buttonhole foot #3 and use a longer stitch length as this fabric doesn't feed well.
12.1.2020
I'm just wondering if neck ribbing should be cut longer to account for the point? In my sample pattern, the neck's final stitching line (n) = 28cm, being cut at 27cm to allow for stretch and recovery. But does that make it too short to sit neatly?
If I extend the neckline as in fig. 1, I get a final band of 28.5cm (+ seam allowances).
(ref. https://growyourownclothes.com/2017/09/14/how-to-get-knit-neckband-ribbing-the-perfect-length-every-time/)
...
Sample 3 is a mixed bag.
 |
| Sample 3 after redoing the topstitching |
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| Not terribly neat, but not a bad start. That's why these are samples :) |
The topstitch is not good enough but I think, though I cut the neck banding too narrow for this method, and a little of the original neckline stitching is visible, the method is good. It's essentially the same as for SNS binding but wends off at the ends, needing the binding to be cut off during sewing to approximately take this shape.
The shorter edge is wrapped underneath the seam allowance.
Topstitching can be continued around the neckline, but it needs to be narrowed to ≤ 3mm.
The extra length for the v-neck seems unnecessary. I must also take more care to align the V properly.
...
I redid the TS. It's better but it's evidently important to be aware of the fabric shifting when you get to the V.
For TS, one needle position from the right, buttonhole foot #3. (#BerninaB380)
13.1.2020
Having tired of sewing the same thing repeatedly, I made a sample today with the same fabric as my nightie will be made from. It''s ribbing is much shorter, having -43% recovery. I, however, am an idiot and cut it with -30% (my brain's quick, wrong maths), so although it looks okay, it still stretched out quite a bit (which is clear when compared with previous samples).
It's evidently a good idea to TS the front from the RS, and the neck binding from the inside. Also, be careful to match the stitch lines when sewing the binding onto the s.a. A more skilled/practised seamstress could probably attach it while ribbing the neckline, and save time.
Stabilising the shoulder seams
This is usually done with clear elastic. My overlocker won't sew it, so I use self fabric, on the straight grain, which I saw done in a RTW t-shirt once and it works. I did wonder about the width to cut the 'tape' and tried at first, a fairly random width, but it obscured the cut edge of the shoulder, so I cut it to the seam allowance width (1cm). This worked much better.
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| The tape is too wide |
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| That's better! |
I should have pre-gathered the sleeves more before attaching the cuffs. They stretched out and are huge at the wrist! They are comfortable for sleeping in though. Elastic might have been helpful with this fabric's very poor recovery.
The neckline stretched out too. It's wearable but a bit cold around the neck and shoulders.
The Finished Toile
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| #wokeuplikethis (I actually did; testing products is important XD) |
The fit is relaxed, largely, I think, because of the very drapey fabric. The armscyes are quite low, which is fine for a nightie, but I'd definitely like them higher for a t-shirt. I'll review the pattern.
What I've Learned in this Project
- How to bind necklines (2 ways)
- Further value of Bernina Manual Buttonhole Foot #3
- How to sew a v-neck t-shirt
- How to cut neckline ribbing to the correct length
- Drafting a raglan sleeve (2 ways)
- How to adapt a woven block for knits
- That recovery is just as important as stretch when drafting patterns for knits, or adapting woven patterns for knits
Questions
- How can I prevent the neckline from stretching?
- stay tape?
- cut it smaller?
- clear elastic?
- How do they do it in industry?
Possible Changes to Make
I have now ordered the pink jersey for the actual nightie. But... I want to change the design a bit. I want to change the neckline and make it more interesting generally. I'll do some sketching and update. Once I check it's measurement against the pattern, if it hasn't stretched out and this is the actual size, I'll make the next one a bit narrower too, and maybe slightly raise the underarms.
I may make a tutorial on how to bind the neckline too.
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